This article was originally published in a sponsored newsletter.

Every day in patient care, I have conversations about cosmetics and products for the face and eye area, whether I’m asked or I start the discussion. With the plethora of lash extensions, TikTok skin care routines and other sources of questionable advisement, I want my patients to see me as an expert source for their ocular cosmetic and skin care routines.

The reality is most of our patients don’t understand the difference between facial skin and periocular skin. The skin around the eyes contains less collagen and elastin compared to the rest of the face, which makes it more susceptible to damage and signs of aging.^1-3 Cosmetics have the potential to cause ocular discomfort and reactions when they interact with the ocular surface and periocular area. Possible resulting complications include debris within the tear film lipid layer, reduced tear film stability, meibomian gland dysfunction, brittle lashes and loss of lashes.^4-7

But what are the ingredients within these products that can cause these issues? I advise patients to refer to the following chart when evaluating their ocular products.

I encourage patients to avoid these ingredients and suggest that they check whether the cosmetic products, lotions or serums they want to use are specially formulated and tested for the eye area. I also recommend ingredients that they should look for instead. These are my top picks for ingredients that I consider safe because they have minimal to no side effects:

• Caffeine, which enhances skin appearance
• Hyaluronic acid, which improves skin tone
• Niacinamide and peptides, which reduce the appearance of wrinkles
• Vitamins C and E, which have added antioxidant properties

Most patients are grateful for this guidance because they didn’t know whether the products they were using were potentially harmful and they were at a loss as to where to find quality information.

The potential for irritating or damaging interactions with ocular cosmetics and skin care products is ubiquitous, and the choices we make when using them matter. By making strong recommendations for our patients, we are ultimately protecting their ocular surface for long-term health and comfort. If I can help my patients make cleaner, safer decisions for their cosmetics and ocular products today, the their long-term outcomes are much more promising.

References:

1. Cheng L, Zhang L, Sun X, et al. Progress of laser and light treatments for lower eyelid rejuvenation. Chinese Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. 2021 Dec;3(4):218-223. doi:10.1016/j.cjprs.2021.12.003
2. Pilkington SJ, Belden S, Miller RA. The tricky tear trough: a review of topical cosmeceuticals for periorbital skin rejuvenation. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015 Sep;8(9):39-47.
3. Meng Y, Feng L, Shan J, Yuan Z, Jin L. Application of high-frequency ultrasound to assess facial skin thickness in association with gender, age, and BMI in healthy adults. BMC Med Imaging. 2022 Jun;22:113. doi:10.1186/s12880-022-00839-w
4. Wang MT, Craig JP. Investigating the effect of eye cosmetics on the tear film: current insights. Clin Optom (Auckl). 2018 Apr;10:33-40. doi:10.2147/OPTO.S150926
5. Ercan ZE. Effect of eyeliner and mascara use on tear film and meibomian glands. Saudi J Ophthalmol. 2022 Jul;36(1):113-116. doi:10.4103/sjopt.sjopt_170_21
6. Chudzicka-Strugała I, Gołębiewska I, Brudecki G, Elamin W, Zwoździak B. Demodicosis in different age groups and alternative treatment options—a review. J Clin Med. 2023 Feb;12(4):1649. doi:10.3390/jcm12041649
7. Patel B, Joos ZP. Diseases of the eyelashes. StatPearls 2022. Updated April 3, 2023. Accessed April 24, 2024. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537100/

Gina M. Wesley OD, MS, FAAO owns and practices at Complete Eye Care in Medina, MN. Accolades include Minnesota's Young Optometrist of the Year in 2011 and the Early Professional Achievement Award from The Ohio State University College of Optometry in 2013. She is a member of the American Optometric Association, a fellow in the American Academy of Optometry and enjoys practicing, writing and lecturing in the industry. For questions or comments about this article, please contact gmowesley@yahoo.com.